AndyD Cub Poster
Posts: 35 No Commercial Interest
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:34 pm Post subject: light bodkins |
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I'm having a set of clout arrows made up and have pretty much decided to go traditional style rather than modern.
Any recommendations for lightish bodkins, or points generally, for clout?
Thanks in advance
Andy
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Club: Ascham Bowmen http://www.freewebs.com/aschambowmen/index.htm Bow: ELB's (Bickerstaff / Cotterill) Sight: O-rings for target Arrows: Wood (Stapleton / Head) Accesories:
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Fanatical_Fletcher Cub Poster
Posts: 40 No Commercial Interest Location: Sunderland
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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What sort of weight are you looking for? Richard head longbows sell a range of light "bodkins", they aren't really a proper bodkin, but they do look quite good, and they come in weights from 40 grains to 70 grains, these fit 5/16 shafts. There are also some larger, heavier (160 grains) bodkins, which do look a bit more accurate, these will slightly over fit 11/32 shafts, but fit flush on 23/64 or 3/8 shafts, both types are on the same page, here's a link: http://www.english-longbow.co.uk/largepics/bodkins.html#conbods
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Club: Cleadon Archers Bow: Longbow! Sight: Arrows: Wooden-Homemade Accesories:
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AndyD Cub Poster
Posts: 35 No Commercial Interest
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks, I hadn't seen them.
Not sure about the weight yet, he's making the footed shafts at the moment, so probably lightish to maintain balance. I like the tapered steel ones on that R.Head website.
Also, just been looking at the Longbow shop and was quite taken by the needlepoint bodkin...although he's breasting (if that's the right word) the shafts to 5/16 at the point. I imagine the metal could be filed down to fit, but they don't look light.
I've got a week or so to hunt around
Andy
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Club: Ascham Bowmen http://www.freewebs.com/aschambowmen/index.htm Bow: ELB's (Bickerstaff / Cotterill) Sight: O-rings for target Arrows: Wood (Stapleton / Head) Accesories:
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Fanatical_Fletcher Cub Poster
Posts: 40 No Commercial Interest Location: Sunderland
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Posted: Fri Mar 14, 2008 10:06 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, I'd imagine those needle bodkins would be rather heavy (well over 200 grains I'd think), much heavier than the re-enactment bodkins Richard Head sells. I'd think one of the lighter machined steel ones that Richard Head sells would be best, as they are on the light side and fit 5/16" shafts properly. Just my opinion though 
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Club: Cleadon Archers Bow: Longbow! Sight: Arrows: Wooden-Homemade Accesories:
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AndyD Cub Poster
Posts: 35 No Commercial Interest
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Club: Ascham Bowmen http://www.freewebs.com/aschambowmen/index.htm Bow: ELB's (Bickerstaff / Cotterill) Sight: O-rings for target Arrows: Wood (Stapleton / Head) Accesories:
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Fanatical_Fletcher Cub Poster
Posts: 40 No Commercial Interest Location: Sunderland
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Posted: Sat Mar 15, 2008 9:43 am Post subject: |
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Hmm, I'd think the first ones would be fairly heavy, much heavier than any normal modern head. The second ones aren't all that heavy, I've got some myself, they look good too. If you do get some of the second ones make sure to soak them in some acetone/brake cleaner or similar to get rid of the machine oil, as they're soaked in it at first (at least mine were) and that causes them not to stick very well to the wood. Just curious, what weight bow will you be shooting these out of?
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Club: Cleadon Archers Bow: Longbow! Sight: Arrows: Wooden-Homemade Accesories:
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AndyD Cub Poster
Posts: 35 No Commercial Interest
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:39 am Post subject: |
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I've a 65lb @30 but I don't pull the full 30 inches. Thinking of getting a 50lb as a spare.
Regards
Andy
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Club: Ascham Bowmen http://www.freewebs.com/aschambowmen/index.htm Bow: ELB's (Bickerstaff / Cotterill) Sight: O-rings for target Arrows: Wood (Stapleton / Head) Accesories:
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Fanatical_Fletcher Cub Poster
Posts: 40 No Commercial Interest Location: Sunderland
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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Ah right, that's a pretty heafty bow then, I wouldn't think you'd have any making the clout distance with the heavier heads. Only thing I'd say (sorry if I'm teaching a granny to suck eggs here ) is to make sure the head fits flush with the shaft and butts up against a shoulder of wood, and doesn't over fit, as that tends to cause the head to break off very easily.
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Club: Cleadon Archers Bow: Longbow! Sight: Arrows: Wooden-Homemade Accesories:
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AndyD Cub Poster
Posts: 35 No Commercial Interest
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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Not at all, I'm pretty new to all this, and depend on the guy making them for advice. They'll points will have to be 5/16 then as that's what the footed end of the shaft will be.
Those modern short bodkins may be ideal.
Incidentally, having made a bathroom mirror frame from Ipe, I had some wood left over and so have asked him to make the footings with it.
Anyone ever used Ipe?
It glues well and is very strong & hard, being resistant to...well pretty much everything...water, insects, blunt tools, and especially screws unless the pre-bored hole is just the right size. I've seen bows made with it.
What woods were traditionally used for footings? and what about now...purpleheart?
Regards
Andy
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Club: Ascham Bowmen http://www.freewebs.com/aschambowmen/index.htm Bow: ELB's (Bickerstaff / Cotterill) Sight: O-rings for target Arrows: Wood (Stapleton / Head) Accesories:
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Fanatical_Fletcher Cub Poster
Posts: 40 No Commercial Interest Location: Sunderland
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Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 8:03 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, 5/16 will be just right. The short bodkins from the archery-centre would be perfect I'd think, they're a really nice head, and not too pricey either. Only one thing I'd say about them is that things from the archery-centre tend to be slightly bigger than from most other places, (sounds ridiculous , I know) for example I've got some of their cheap wooden shafts (I use them for re-enactment) in 11/32, however they seem to be more like 23/64 shaft size, compared with shafts I've got from other places.
Ipe is an excellent bow wood, ideal as a belly-wood in a longbow. I've seen a fair few made from it, often with a bamboo back. I've never used it myself (though I'm only just starting out making bows, really) but it seems to be quite easy to get hold of, and according to a few people you can often get it from flooring places.
Lots of woods can be used for footing, purpleheart, greeheart, bubinga, actionwood (a type of maple), osage, cocobola, pretty much any type of hardwood, however most that are used will be of a contrasting colour to the main shaft, just for looks.
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Club: Cleadon Archers Bow: Longbow! Sight: Arrows: Wooden-Homemade Accesories:
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