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Chedawan
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Straightening wooden shaftsHi,
Just a quick question. Fortunately I've been lucky in the set of woods that I made, that the person who gave me the shafts, gave me nice 'arrow straight' ones, however, as I'm rather fancying making some more, I'm sure at some point I'm going to come across a length of shaft that isn't in its initial state ideal for said purpose. What I'm wondering is what methods do you suggest for straightening them out?
I've heard people say about steaming them over a boiling kettle, or using a length of pipe to rub the opposite side to the bend, I've also seen a video of the guys at three rivers archery 'hand straightening' them by sharply bending the opposite way (I'm sure I'd probably snap more than I sort out if I employ this method. So what would you suggest?
Also one other quick question, I've heard of 'baralled arrows' which I believe are tapered from the centre to either end? What are the advantages of this, and how is it achieved? Is it something I can conceivably do myself at home, or would I need a workshop full of strangely humming machinery and whirring contraptions? Also I've only seen points/nocks sold as 5/16 and 11/32, so if I were to in any way taper the shaft, where would I get points/nocks to fit?
Adam - got the bug for fletching, and now has a thirst for knowledge.
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fred
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The advantage of baralled arrows is you leave the strength in the middle the arrows straightens up faster when it leaves the bow.I have made my arrows like this for 20 years you can also use a smaller spine and smaller pile which if made properly increases the speed of the arrow.I do not recomend this set up unless you are a experianced archer your release and style has to be spot on.There is something in it because some of the MARY ROSE shafts where made that way and I think Eastons spent a lot of money perfecting a corbon shaft.As to the size I use 5/16" shafts and barall down to 9/32" and you can buy nocks and piles to fit
Fred
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