wintellect
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pressure button workingsThis weekend I took apart my pressure button to see how it's madeup - how the pressure is applied to the arrow, etc. Here's what I found out (using a Beiter button image as an example):
I currently only have a basic button - which works fine for me.
I understand how the collar controls the depth of the button through the riser. I also understand how the spring tension makes the button nib "harder" or "softer".
However, what does the big bit adjust? When do I need to adjust it? In the Beiter button example, it also has a micrometer on it - so what "tiny" adjustments does it manage?
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Mjollnir
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You interpritation is wrong for the beiter button.
You are right with the collar.
The "What does this bit adjust" - adjusts the stiffness of the spring. You loosen the locking bolt at the top, rotate the body to adjust stiffness, using the micrometer as a guide, then retighten bolt to lock off.
The bit you mark as a tensioner, is just a blanking plate to stop the spring, beiter for some reason, decided to make it squishy.
Other buttons have adjustments in other places so it is really down to the button to how to adjust it.
TTFN
MJ
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Bushy
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dont quote me on this as I still use a shibuya dx which aint got all that jazz on it but I got a funny feeling that u are right to a degree I think u pre set the stifness of the button and then the bit labled
'what does this bit do' actually is there for micro adjustments to the pressures
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Mjollnir
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I have the Beiter button, the bit on the far right does nothing.
Well if it does I haven't set it up right lol
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wintellect
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I, too, currently have a Shibuya DX. The bit at the end certainly seems to affect nib pressure. CW movement makes it harder and CCW makes it softer.
And here lies my confusion, and hence why I asked the question 'what does this bit do'.
Perhaps Beiter do it their own way.
Still confused somewhat. I mean, when it comes to tuning the button, should I be rotating the 'what does this bit do' bit, or the bit I labeled as 'Spring tension' ???
Here's a pic of the DX, and you can clearly see that there are two adjustment screws on the 'what does this bit do' section. The one on the right locks the 'Spring tension' bit and the one on the left locks the 'what does this bit do' bit.
Sorry if the titles I'm using for the parts of the button are poor, I simply don't know what their actual names are. I'm appreciating all the feedback though!
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Mjollnir
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Ah yes the DX is a different kettle of fish. Most buttons are slightly different. A club member has this one. If memory servs
You have the same collar (with grub screw tightening) for depth adjustment.
The big body bit has two jobs 1/ as a cap to the internals of the button, and two a locking device for adjustment.
The Grub screw nearest the gold tip locks the cap on, loosening that will allow you to unscrew the body (cap) and get to the internals.
The grub screw furthest away from the gold tip locks the adjustment for spring pressure. loosening this allows you to put a allen key in the end and adjust spring pressure, then tighten it again to keep the setting there.
The body bit on this button does nothing else (I think).
so in answer to your question
| wintellect wrote: | | Still confused somewhat. I mean, when it comes to tuning the button, should I be rotating the 'what does this bit do' bit, or the bit I labeled as 'Spring tension' ??? |
you only need rotate the bit marked 'spring tension' on this button 'what does this bit do' does nothing
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wintellect
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Sweet! Thanks for explaining that all to me - it now makes perfect sense!
It's also interesting to know that plunger buttons work differently (my bad for assuming they were all the same)
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joe croatia
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my Beiter button sometimes rotates the whole nib when i turn 'what does this bit do' and what i've found out is that if i press 'spring tension' and then rotate it works fine! thats what happens to me so maybe thats what 'spring tension' is for or my button is dodgy
joe
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Mjollnir
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| joe croatia wrote: | my Beiter button sometimes rotates the whole nib when i turn 'what does this bit do' and what i've found out is that if i press 'spring tension' and then rotate it works fine! thats what happens to me so maybe thats what 'spring tension' is for or my button is dodgy  |
It might just be, although I can't imagine what nib orientation has to do with anything 
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joe croatia
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| Mjollnir wrote: | | joe croatia wrote: | my Beiter button sometimes rotates the whole nib when i turn 'what does this bit do' and what i've found out is that if i press 'spring tension' and then rotate it works fine! thats what happens to me so maybe thats what 'spring tension' is for or my button is dodgy  |
It might just be, although I can't imagine what nib orientation has to do with anything   |
well my thinking is if the whole nib is rotating then tension is not adjusting
is that correct
joe
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Chedawan
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The nib rotating (if by nib you mean 'bit that's actually in contact with the arrow') doesn't mean that the pressure isn't altering on the button (it's a spring son't forget, so the nib 'floats' for all intents and purpose), it does however suggest that the arrow rest is either too high or too low. The mid point of your arrow should touch the mid point of the 'nib', if not the power exerted by the arrow will twist the nib around as it goes past. If it goes anticlockwise the arrow, and therefore your rest may be a little high, and alternatively if the nib twists clockwise the rest may be low. This is true for right handers, obviously the opposite will be true of left handers.
Hope this helps,
Adam.
PS the grub screw nearest the front on your DX as MJ says is to get to the internals... three reasons you might want to do this... 1) Curiosity. 2) To swap the spring for a stronger or weaker one. 3) To clean all the grot out when you've fallen down in a wood somewhere.... usually 3!
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Mjollnir
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| joe croatia wrote: | well my thinking is if the whole nib is rotating then tension is not adjusting
is that correct |
nope, cause you are still compressing the spring inside, as Chedawan says, the pin is floating.
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Mjollnir
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| Chedawan wrote: | | PS the grub screw nearest the front on your DX as MJ says is to get to the internals... three reasons you might want to do this... 1) Curiosity. 2) To swap the spring for a stronger or weaker one. 3) To clean all the grot out when you've fallen down in a wood somewhere.... usually 3! |
Oh and 4) to replace the pin as and when the pin gets a grove worn into it.
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