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cliveanne
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How's your "D" loop?The reason for asking is:
Well, the learning curve has gone up somewhat. I was shooting a Long Western at the club yesterday. The first 4 doz' arrows @ 80 not a good score, well down on the last effort. 60 was even worse... well, it was my own fault really. I had let the maintenance program slip  .
My "D"loop needed attention, but I let it ride. Arrow number 9 of the first doz' @60yds, BANG! one miss, a smack in the eye, no "D"loop.
Lesson 1 Maintenance cannot be ignored.
Lesson 2 You will shoot low, shooting without the loop alters the string angle, add a theoretical 10yd sight mark to get back on target (Depending on poundage pulled). This is with the release below the arrow
Lesson 3 carry spare loop material.
Oh, & lesson 4, make sure you know how to tie the loop...It might just help. I can, but there was no spare sorry to say.
Here endeth the lessons for today 
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Liam
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 I thinks me better learn how to tie a d loop
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segolden
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Click to see full size image
Hope this helps. 
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Jabberwocky
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A quick point to watch out for:
Be careful not to make the d loop too long as this will often catch the slider or cables, causing wear on the d loop and possible your cables.
When you shoot the string does not stop dead at the bracing height set on your bow (if it did you would get a bow that shook itself to pieces, but would be amazingly fast), but actually stretches and carries on a surprising amount past this point and can cause the d loop to catch other parts of the bow.
The tell tale signs are usually fuzziness on the outside of the d loop and possibly the cables. A little wear is more than acceptable and quite normal, but excessive wear is usually a sign that the loop is too long. Conversely too short a d loop can cause issues with getting a clean release and introducing torque to the string pushing shots off line.
There is not hard and fast rule for the correct length of d loop, just the usual experimentation.
Hope this is of some help
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Liam
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| segolden wrote: |
Click to see full size image
Hope this helps. |
Thanks Steve  and jabberwocky for the heads up on too bigger d loop
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cliveanne
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| Jabberwocky wrote: | A quick point to watch out for:
Be careful not to make the d loop too long as this will often catch the slider or cables, causing wear on the d loop and possible your cables.
When you shoot the string does not stop dead at the bracing height set on your bow (if it did you would get a bow that shook itself to pieces, but would be amazingly fast), but actually stretches and carries on a surprising amount past this point and can cause the d loop to catch other parts of the bow.
The tell tale signs are usually fuzziness on the outside of the d loop and possibly the cables. A little wear is more than acceptable and quite normal, but excessive wear is usually a sign that the loop is too long. Conversely too short a d loop can cause issues with getting a clean release and introducing torque to the string pushing shots off line.
There is not hard and fast rule for the correct length of d loop, just the usual experimentation.
Hope this is of some help |
I have found that 5" is just about right. At least I think it was. I'm off to Merlin later this morning to get some material sorted, I'll check then
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Steve B
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Whit my D loop, I normally cut them at 4 1/2" I have a tied on nocking point below the arrow and then put my D Loop on as I find that the top know normally holds well and doesn't turn then I tie the bottom loop on the string under the tied on nocking point......
Never had a problem with this method and it works well for me, I do make sure that I have a slight gap (1/16") between the top knot and tied in nocking point, that stops the nock being pinched when I am at full draw due to the string angle 
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cliveanne
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| Steve B wrote: | Whit my D loop, I normally cut them at 4 1/2" I have a tied on nocking point below the arrow and then put my D Loop on as I find that the top know normally holds well and doesn't turn then I tie the bottom loop on the string under the tied on nocking point......
Never had a problem with this method and it works well for me, I do make sure that I have a slight gap (1/16") between the top knot and tied in nocking point, that stops the nock being pinched when I am at full draw due to the string angle |
Sounds good to me 
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