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segolden

Arrow Tuning And Recurves

Proper tuning of arrows for a recurve bow is considered by many to be easier than for Longbows and selfbows, primarily because of the risers being cut or molded (alloy) past center-shot. One begins to encounter both theoretical and actual problems when picking out shaft materials. The differences in performance, spine and weight between Carbon, Aluminum and Wood can be daunting to the amateur, particularly when he/she has no access to good advice. I myself solved some of this by acquiring arrows that had been previously set up for the bow I bought, then matching them with new ones as closely as possible, minimizing the tuning process. I shoot off an elevated Bear Weatherest, a plastic rest without plunger, also keeping the tuning process simple. The arrows are alloy 1916 Eastons, but I am experimenting with carbons as well as wood.

What have you had to do in tuning your bow for the situation you wanted? What arrow types did you use, and what complications might you have run into? How did you solve any potential difficulties?
Bushy

before fletching all my arrows I am shooting easton ACC a friend of mine made me set out a target at about 20 yds and shoot the arrows bareshaft and see what happened this helps to set bracing height as well if the barcing height in essence is to high or two low the arrow will not leave straight as u havent got a pressure button it doesnt really matter.

Once the arrow is leaving the bow straight without fletching basically it is going sort of where u want it to then u have got the optimum bracing height of the bow for that arrow and by adding fletchings you are only going to make the arrow more stable in flight.

Unfortunately there is no real answer it is a case of trail and error in my mind as all bows react differently but that is how I was told to set mine up
Steve B

Haven't fiddled in this are much , but the one thing I do know is that getting the correct spine is critical for recurves.....
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